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During
Ottoman times, a great distinction was made between the garments
that women wore indoors and outdoors. Around the beginning of the
16th century, women's outdoor clothing consisted of ferace (overmantle),
yaşmak (light-colored veil), and peçe (black veil). Winter overmantles
were made of wool while those worn in summer were of silk. They
had full sleeves and wrapped the body very loosely. Opening in the
front, their lengths reached the ground. During the 18th century,
trimmed collars were added to the overmantle. Over the years, the
lengths of the "collars" varied, sometimes reaching as
far as the lower hem as during the reign of Mahmud 11. During the
second half of the 19th century skirt fronts were cut round and
were fastened with a single button. Edges were embellished with
pleating. Overmantle colors played an important role during Ottoman
times: Muslim women wore red, blue, or green feraces while those
worn by non-Muslim women were of paler shades.
Yaşmaks were made from a fine, soft, white fabric and consisted
of two parts: one that was wrapped about the head covering it to
the eyebrows and another that covered the lower part of the face
to just the bridge of the nose.
The
çarşaf, a baggy outer garment, is a fairly late addition to the
Ottoman woman's wardrobe, having been introduced from Syria after
1872. Made from two long pieces of cloth joined together and fastened
in pleats at the waist with a drawstring, it was worn together with
a transparent veil over the face. This innovation did not always
meet with approval; Sultan Abdiilhamid 11 for example expressly
forbade the women of his palace to wear it. The baggy Çarşaf was
in some cases replaced by a two-piece affair consisting of a skirt
and cape.
Within the home, Ottoman women of the 16th and
17th centuries dressed in ankle-length trousers called şalvar, long-sleeved
shifts of a seersucker gauze that reached down to the heels, long-sleeved
cardigans, and robes known as kaftan. Open in the front and lacking
any trimming, the fullness of the skirts of these robes was increased
by the addition of narrow godets from the waist down. This style
is common in skirts until the 19th century.
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